A lesson learned...

So, every mindful of the need to give people and restaurants a second chance, this Rampant Oenophile visited Oriente, the fine dining establishment at Costa d' Este, the Estefan family hotel in Vero Beach, Florida. As watchers of I drank what? will recall, the dining and wine list were somewhat lacking during the restaurant's early days.

At nearly one year old, however, this Rampant Oenophile expected a maturity in both the menu and the wine list. Unfortunately, only the wine list has improved.

Everyone was pleased that the bar service had improved. Up from just a few wines by the glass during its opening weeks, Oriente's bar now offers a fine selection of red and white wines by the glass.

I enjoyed a glass of Peachy Canyon Cabernet for a pricey $12. I can't hold the wine accountable for Oriente's high prices or stingy pour, but the wine left me wanting another glass. One sniff and you realize that you are drinking a complex and mature wine. Peachy Canyon is a small Central Coast winery and does a great job with this Cab.

With dinner, we enjoyed a bottle of 2006 Duckhorn and a 2004 Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet. Of all the Cabernet Sauvignons I've sampled in the past several years, the Boekenhoutskloof remains my favorite, though finding it at local wine shops has been a challenge. The vintner releases only quality wines, and never compromises standards, so Boekenhoutskloof remains an elusive treasure.

This Cab offers a very mature and polished aroma of subtle fruits and minerals. So soft on the tongue, but full bodied and rich. Not creamy, but very clean flavors impress the palate. It offers sophistication and never overwhelms. If you can't find the 2004, try the 2006, though buy a few bottles and cellar it.

Though their wine list improved since our last visit, the overall operation continues to disappoint. Oriente served all of its wines from the same cellar, so all the reds were chilled to white temperatures. I'm convinced that everyone serves most reds a bit warm and most whites a bit cool, but Oriente's wine staff just over chilled the bottles. When we offered that advice to our server, she snipped back that it was served as recommended. Any casual wine drinker knows that red wine should never be chilly.

Regarding the food, utterly forgettable. Though a few of the cervices were tasty, overall nothing in the signature appetizer offerings impressed. I ordered a flight of 5 cervices samples, something that Oriente is "known for" according to their own press clippings. Unfortunately, of the five morsels, only two were good, two were fair, and one made me choke.

Our companions fared the same. Two of our guests ordered the soft shell crab, only to be served what appeared and tasted like a carnival funnel cake. The fluffy fried batter obscured what only loosely could be recognized as a crab, and overwhelmed any crustacean flavor. The scallops fared no better, being over cooked, dry, and chewy despite being wrapped in ham and served on risotto, which was a bit too much "of the tooth" for anyone's taste.

All in all, a lesson learned. Hotel restaurants may not deserve a second chance. Although the wine list matured nicely, mediocre food and overpriced shallow pours make Oriente fit for tourists, not regulars.